By Henry Kinyua
Last week, a story in one of Kenya’s leading dailies explored why the push for increased coffee production, particularly in the Rift Valley and Western counties, is raising concerns about food security. This anxiety stems largely from our country’s narrow definition of food security: we have accepted that food equals maize, and maize equals food. Since these regions are known for their maize production, introducing another crop is allegedly seen as a threat to the country’s supply of this essential staple.
This raises a critical question: whose responsibility is it to guarantee food security? As a smallholder farmer, I believe your primary responsibility for food security lies with your own family. As a crop producer, you should first ensure there is adequate food for your household. Various studies indicate that Kenyans consume approximately 75kg of maize annually, let’s round this to one 90kg bag per person. Therefore, a farmer with a five-member household should plant maize on a quarter-acre to produce the five bags needed for family survival. The remaining land can then be used to grow other commodities for sale, enabling the family to afford additional necessities.
One of the government’s key responsibilities is creating an enabling environment for businesses and economic activities to thrive. With agriculture being a devolved function, county governments should ensure farmers receive comprehensive support like soil information, crop suitability guidance, input access, and extension services. They should then allow farmers to decide which additional commodities make economic sense for their operations.
If farmers see profit potential in coffee, governments should support coffee production and marketing without guilt-tripping them about supposedly starving other Kenyans. To Governor Bii of Uasin Gishu, who was quoted in the original story, I encourage you to support your farmers in growing coffee. Neighbouring counties like Nandi and Kericho have successfully supported their farmers; Nandi County’s coffee production grew by an impressive 560%.
The fundamental problem facing Kenyan coffee is low production. Our volumes are so minimal that no global brand can rely on Kenyan coffee as a consistent supply source. At a recent international function, someone noted that “these days, Kenyans only sell samples.” You receive a sample of excellent coffee, place an order for several containers, and then the complications begin.
Let’s examine the data. Global coffee production is measured in 60kg bags. According to USDA data for the 2023/2024 season, global coffee production reached 169 million bags. Brazil led with 35% of total volumes (64.7 million bags). Our neighbours, Ethiopia and Uganda, occupied positions 5 and 6, producing 6% and 4% respectively or 10.6 and 6.7 million bags. Kenya sat uncomfortably at position 20 with only 825,000 bags.
Over the past decade, Kenya’s coffee has shown a compounded annual growth rate of 0% and a year-over-year decline of 9%. This contrasts sharply with global averages of 1% compounded growth and 3% annual growth. Uganda, closer to home, achieved a 10-year compounded average growth of 7% and year-over-year growth of 5%.
We must increase our production fivefold in the short to medium term and up to tenfold in the long run to establish a meaningful market presence.
A common question is where we will find land to produce ten times our current coffee output.
First, we already cultivate coffee on 113,501 hectares. With proper agronomic care, we can increase production fivefold without planting additional seedlings. Finding another 100,000 hectares for coffee cultivation is achievable and would benefit farmers significantly.
I firmly believe smallholder farmers should not subsidize the rest of the country. They should produce enough for their families and utilize the remaining land for other profitable commodities. Those familiar with smallholder production systems know this reflects how Kenyan farmers already operate; no farmer produces only one commodity. They typically manage at least three; a coffee farmer in Murang’a or Kiambu is also a dairy farmer with some avocado trees.
To farmers in the Rift Valley and western regions: plant and tend to coffee. It shall be well with you.
